Hot Engine

[JMcTurnan]

After I run my engine till its fully warmed and I leave it to go into a store or do something, when I come back out its hard as hell to start. It constantly turns over, and after like a couple minutes it will start. I'm assuming it's just because the engine gets hotter when its not running because no water is going through, is this right? Anyway to fix it?

[FreakysFords]

Retard timing or go FORD DuraSparkII and hook up the FoMoCo provided white wire to the "s" terminal on the start solenoid. This will retard timing during starting and go back to normal run once running.

[Dragon]

That won't make it easier to start. The engine is cooking off and it actually boils gas in the carb making the engine over rich. You are right is is getting hotter because the heat is not going out the fins on the radiator.

With my electric fan on thermostat I can park the fan kicks in because there is no cooling air. Then it stops. The engine cooks more and the thermostat opens again so the fan turns on. This happens until the engine cools below 180. My carb never boils the fuel.

Your thermostat and engine is doing the same thing as mine but yours can't cool when it does. Heat rises so as the heat goes into the radiator and gets cooled it pushes the already cool water back into the engine helping it retard the cook off process.

[BobbyFord]

Get a phenolic carb spacer.

[Dragon]

Then your carb will never heat up in the winter.

[BobbyFord]

Then your carb will never heat up in the winter.

We don't have winter in California

[Dragon]

20 years in San Diego myself then I went to San Francisco and froze my tail off.

[jzjames]

When you think your engine is up to temp. start it by just turning the key - without touching anything. It should fire right up.

[Dragon]

Not in a hot cook off. The carb will have flooded the engine. People walked up to me all the time before I got the electric fan and offered to fix or help me with oil burning solutions. What they were seeing was the raw heated fuel being pushed out of the tailpipe. 2 and 3 minutes of cranking to clear the engine before it would light off.

[JMcTurnan]

I shouldn't have any timing problems, mine is exactly on according to the light. This is not a timing problem, because I can wait till its about 180 degrees and it starts right up. But when i shut it off at 180, it usually goes up to about 210 and wont start till it comes back down till about 180. Whats a phenolic carb spacer? What exactly are you saying dragon? Your electric fan kicks on when your engine is off? And does not stop till 180 degrees?

[DIXONBOY]

Hey jmcturnan, does it turn over realy slowly like a rump, rump, rump, sound to it? If so mine does that too on both my trucks and I never could figure it out. I live it texas and we have some pretty hot summers.

[Dragon]

I shouldn't have any timing problems, mine is exactly on according to the light. This is not a timing problem, because I can wait till its about 180 degrees and it starts right up. But when i shut it off at 180, it usually goes up to about 210 and wont start till it comes back down till about 180. Whats a phenolic carb spacer? What exactly are you saying dragon? Your electric fan kicks on when your engine is off? And does not stop till 180 degrees?

Right so on the hottest or coldest day my truck stays at 180 when I get out. So it does not heat soak. A phenolic spacer is an insulator that goes under a carb. It stops the fuel from boiling away. It also stops the carb from warming up so it can run better.

My electric fan is not hooked into the ignition switch. It is a 1160 cfm 16" fan with thermostatic control and is tied directly to the battery. My radiator usually cools enough when driving the fan turns off and on at lights but when I am rolling I cool pretty good. On a warm or hot day I park and can walk away then I will hear the fan roar and after a few minutes it stops. My truck will then drive away and start right up even on our 100 degree days because the carb does not boil.

[cep62]

If it's flooding like that and you are using a Holley ,try setting the floats a little lower to make room for when the fuel expands.
Also hold the pedal to the floor when cranking to let more air in.
Don't pump it just hold it until it starts.

[Dragon]

But is not flooding it is cooking off. The solution is to lower the carb temp or the engine temp. If you lower the floats enough to stop the fuel from boiling out of the vents and jets you would not be able to drive it. Less fuel means more boiling not less. Less contact with cooler surfaces.


I use kit 3653 for control and fan 3700. If i was to do it again I would use a 10 inch for constant cooling above 160 and a 12 inch for cooling above 190. That system worked well on my desert racing 68 F100 SWB.
http://haydenauto.com/Featured%20Produc ... ntent.aspx
http://haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto ... c-fans.pdf

I made my own radiator misting system now you can buy one.
http://haydenauto.com/New%20Products-Ra ... ntent.aspx

[JMcTurnan]

Thats exactly right dixon. I am going to try a starter first, it is a 33 year old starter so thats the first guess. But today even when it gets down to 140 it still has trouble starting, although it will. But when it is 210 it wont. I got stuck at junk yard today for like 30minutes. It was rather warm today. But I talked to the mechanic at the junk yard he said if it was boiling over smoke would be coming out of the carb, which I have none coming out. If i hold the pedal to the floor, cant I flood it out?