What Im about to write is not BS,I ordered a universal fit Summit aluminum radiator,part # said Ford,I got it,and the inlet-outlets were reversed,and it was listed for a Ford,I called Summit,the tech told me to send it back,and gave me a Chev part#
for another radiator,with the ins-outs in the right places,I got it,and the bottom hose connection was at an angle,pointing straight at the A:I:R.pump,so I couldnt get the bottom hose on with out cutting,re-welding the tube back on,I decided not to,Ill bring it to FL. with me in Feb,and return it for something else,So I decided to repair my stock rad,with the plastic end tanks,I got it out on my bench,and un-pried the tabs and got off the leaking tank,I patched it inside and out with epoxy-mil,
but what makes this hard to believe is how clogged it was,there was literally handfuls of what looked like rust colored clay in the bottom of the driver side tank,going up almost half way,I rodded it out with a long dip stick I had laying around,I then pressure washed each and every cross flow tube for like 30 minutes,it was completly clear when I got done,I ran a thick bead of silicone around the rubber gasket,and re-installed the tank,then pressed down the tabs,and tapped them tight with a small hammer/ drift pin, re-installed,and now my temp.is nmt 140-150,before it was going into the 195-200 mark,Why didnt I just do this before ordering 2 seperate rads,that didnt fit??with out counting the cash I lost,all it cost was some epoxy-mil,and a tube of silicone,I guess what Im trying to say is Its not as intimidating as I thopught it would be to open up a plastic tanked radiator,and repair it.
