Hot Engine

[JMcTurnan]

Let me give you information i didnt before, this will probably help. Its not that it wont start, but it doesnt turn over as quick as it would if it was cold. Which makes it not start. It is getting fuel and fire, sorry should have explained this earlier.

Well now... THAT makes a diffrence...

I would suggest testing the battery and starter when its acting up... I'm going to guess the starter is going...

OK, Im sorry we were responding to different posts then we though. So check the starter then?

[JMcTurnan]

I do so many posts because my mind goes 1 million miles a second, so when I think your responding to one post your aCTUALLY responding to another. Gotcha, how to I check the starter? What should it run?

[Dragon]

The best way to test a starter is take it to Autozone or O'reilly, Free test.

[JMcTurnan]

I cant just use one of those electrical testers that give the amperage out?

[Dragon]

I cant just use one of those electrical testers that give the amperage out?

I am an electrician if the tester for the current is not strong enough and you read too much current you will get burned. BAD All of mine are real expensive and one used millivolts to give current readings. It handles 400 AC and 800 DC current readings. My handheld tester reads 200 amps and has a breakdown rating of 300 amps. One of those tools cost over 200 dollars.

When they test them at the store they put a safety cage over the starter. Not for parts but for electrical arc explosion and flame. If it was for parts fragmentation the cage would use thicker metal.

[JMcTurnan]

Well I'm hoping it is the starter, because I honestly like the fan I got I really don't want an electric one. But it is an old starter, so it probably wouldnt hurt to put a new starter on. The last starter I had sort of acted the same way.

[Dragon]

No matter what fan you got you can't beat the extra 10 to 30 hp an electric gives you. Changing the starter will not make the engine start. Your starter can crank at 1/2 the speed it does and the engine still will start.

When you say your engine hits 210 is that on the factory guessing gauge or an aftermarket. If it is the factory gauge you could really be at 240 and if you had the air cleaner off you would see fuel vaporizing. With a Flash Point of -50F it boils at 85 degrees, no matter what but as the temperature of the engine get hotter the more the different parts of gasoline boil off and that is when the problem gets worse. As the heavy chemicals boil away they recondense but without the more flammable chemicals so it does not fire up easy.

[JMcTurnan]

Yea, I'm just always a tad skeptical of those. Because the other fans are almost fail safe LOL.

[Dragon]

What fan is fail safe? I never had an electric die and clutch fans lock up and need repair when they lock up they eat every bit of 10 to 40 hp depending on the size. Flex fans will have blade failures from flexing over time.. So even the basic fan there is no fail safe fan and even those have torn out the bolt holes and gone flying. Rare but new hoses battery and hood costed way more than my electric which will only ever fail by stop spinning.

[JMcTurnan]

The electric fans are decently prices yes they are. However I have had the flex fan tear the bolts out and fly out into the highway . But yea, do they make an electric fan that can go with a flex fan?

[Dragon]

The electric fans are decently prices yes they are. However I have had the flex fan tear the bolts out and fly out into the highway . But yea, do they make an electric fan that can go with a flex fan?

You would not need a flex fan with an electric fan and I stopped using flex fans in the late 70s because of failures and I never used a clutch fan after working at Ford and having to repair the clutches all the time.

You could use an electric by removing the spacer behind the flex or getting one that is half height. But with a 14, 16 or 17 inch electric you don't need the flex it won't help the cooling as the 14 moves more air than the flex.

[Redcap]

http://www.kmjent.com/cart/home.php?cat=15625577

[FORD428CJ]

I shouldn't have any timing problems, mine is exactly on according to the light. This is not a timing problem, because I can wait till its about 180 degrees and it starts right up. But when i shut it off at 180, it usually goes up to about 210 and wont start till it comes back down till about 180. Whats a phenolic carb spacer? What exactly are you saying dragon? Your electric fan kicks on when your engine is off? And does not stop till 180 degrees?

First off, if your going to buy an electric fan... Plan on spending some coin. Dont skimp on that! Cheap ones dont flow the air like they should. I would stick with a stock fan for the time being.

Also with a phenolic spacer will help ya. They will work, even in the cold. Not a problem ran them for years. Also consider an electric fuel pump! That will fix your vapor lock problem. So, a spacer and a E-Pump! You'll be on your way... JMHO

[JMcTurnan]

Thanks very much guys, I dont run my truck hard. I keep it easy. Ive learned too many lessons from running cars and trucks rough ha.

[Dragon]

As for electric fans failing I moved the 12 and 10 off my racer to my street truck from there the 12 went to a Toyota Karina. Then to a 81 buick Lesabre with V6 and repartnered up with the 10 then a Dodge 66 PU with slant six. 7 years the same two fans got abused and stayed running. You cannot move a flex fan to all those vehicles nor a clutch fan.