Engine break in oil

[OldRedFord]

I was looking at using Valvoline Vr1 oil to do my engine break in. I was told that they dropped the zink in the Vr1 also. So now I am wondering what would be a good oil to use to break my motor in that I do not have to buy online someplace.

[flatblack]

rotella t 15w40, thats what i always recomend and what i always use in flat tappet engines. you can also buy a zinc additive made by lucus and ac delco has one too.

[OldRedFord]

I have a zinc additive that is made by Trick Flow.

Ill look into the Rotella T.

[convincor]

rotella t 15w40

X2

[BobbyFord]

I'm using VR1 and a bottle of this:

[OldRedFord]

I'm using VR1 and a bottle of this:
[ Image ]

Which grade are you using?

[BlueOvalDave]

Bobby, what kind of Valve covers are those?

Oh and +1 on the Shell Rotella

[BobbyFord]

I'm using VR1 and a bottle of this:
[ Image ]

Which grade are you using?

I'm running 40wt for the 20 min. break-in and then probably 20w50.

Bobby, what kind of Valve covers are those?...

Blue Thunder valve covers.

[BlueOvalDave]

I just had a chance to see your thread on your build

Sweet! And those stainless bends just make it pop! You've just shamed me into redoing my Torino lines.

[DuckRyder]

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/76

[AlleyCat]

I'll add one more for Rotella T.

My reasoning is simple. I've overhauled dozens of heavy truck engines and filled them with Rotella T. Never had a problem. A few of those never even got a road test. After they ran long enough to purge the cooling system and checked for leaks they went right back to work.

[Dragon]

I used 30 weight oil for the 1st 5 minutes then change it. Then at 20 minutes I change it again. Then what my oil of choice for the engine performance level is gets used. The Filter also goes at both initial oil changes. So on the street rotella 14-40 or Amsoil Syn at 15-40. Racing gets pure 40 weight Shell, Valvoline Racing or Amsoil 50 Syn.

Since my engines all get molykote GD - Paste when I build them the one thing I don't have to worry about is my slick stuff being lost during the next 200 or so oil changes.

[OldRedFord]

Turns out NAPA has the "Not street legal" Valvoline race oil 10w30. Bout $70 a case with tax. They had 20w50 in the store but would hace to get the 10w30. Would 20w50 be too thick?

[Dragon]

Only too thick when cold. Variable weight oil works some of the time. But I had an engine stop getting oil with 10w50 years ago because the oil was to thick at 5 degrees. How is the Valvoline 10w30 not street legal? An additive or something?

[70_F100]

Only too thick when cold. Variable weight oil works some of the time. But I had an engine stop getting oil with 10w50 years ago because the oil was to thick at 5 degrees. How is the Valvoline 10w30 not street legal? An additive or something?

From the link in DuckRyder's post:

What are the benefits to using a racing oil versus a regular "street legal" oil?

The Valvoline VR1 Racing & "Not Street Legal" Racing Oils contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include less detergents than regular conventional motor oils.

Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" oil?

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of Phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14% of Zinc and .13% of Phosphorus.


From reading the info on that page, I have to assume it's mostly the phosphorus because of the effect on the emissions systems.