I was putting on my new headers on my truck. The drive side went on with out any problems except having to remove the clutch linkage and little frustration of having to climb out from under the truck and back under the hood. The passenger side is giving me hell I broke two bolts, and have kinda stoped to see how I will get this out. I have searched how to remove them and read all sorts: removeing the head, using vise grips, 90* angle drill, I was wondering what have worked well for you guys. I am willing to tare out the head but dont really want to , should I continue and try to get the rest out or what .
All advice and help is much appreciated.
Joshua aka Young Gun FE - Famous Engine (Brandi) 72 F100 360 5.9L Sport Custom 6" Lift U.S. Army Veteran/11B
"Beauty is only skin deep....Ugly is to the bone"
It is more important to understand what you don't know than what you do know,because then you can start to learn..???
"you must deal with the attaboys and the ass chewing s with your head up and looking them in the eyes" T.J.E. aka My Dad
There are only three types of people wolves, sheepdogs, and sheep. What are you?
Oh my gosh... If you can get a good grip with vise grips, clamp them on, heat up the area with a torch (not too much, just enough to allow some wax to penetrate the threads). apply a little wax (any common wax) and try to turn the grips a little bit in each direction (back and fourth) until you can move the broken bolt freely...
If not, you will have to remove the head and drill out the studs... 1/8 drill bit, keep the bits sharp. center with a level, oil and drill all they way through the bolt.. then use a 3/16 drill, same thing. Heat area, apply wax, turn bolt with an easy out.. don't force the easy out.. it will break.... if you have to you can continue to use larger drill bits and drill all the way through the original bolt until you are just about at the original threads in the head, then use a sharpened punch and carefully tap out the remaining bolt remains from the threads... (TAKE YOUR TIME)..
those bolts always seem to break off in any fe i have ever touched. excpet the drivers side fe in my 4wd. those botls came right out and went back in with no problems. but the passenger side looks bad so i have been afraid to touch them. use heat use heat use heat. heat the flange on the heat to expand the head threads so the bolt wil come out. this doesnt always work but it might. bees wax? i dont think so not on the bolts onm any enigne i have ever seen. maybe on soem clean new looking bolts. but not on rusty old bolts i doubt it would work.
OK top bolts are through holes in cast iron so all you do is finish removing manifold cut broken bolt close to head then preheat bolt small cutting torch blow out bolt with torch and then clean out hole pith a plug tap torch will not cut cast iron .
I know some will think I am CRAZY but have done it 4 or 5 times in FE's and hundreds of tines in other cast iron jobs
"Beauty is only skin deep....Ugly is to the bone"
It is more important to understand what you don't know than what you do know,because then you can start to learn..???
"you must deal with the attaboys and the ass chewing s with your head up and looking them in the eyes" T.J.E. aka My Dad
There are only three types of people wolves, sheepdogs, and sheep. What are you?
Yes they are a pain I have had FE engines with 42K miles break off !!! But still the best luch I have had was weld a oversize nut onto whats left. Then heat the top of the head that holds the rusted stud in. You are lucky cause the top ones even if you are to strike out can be drilled right through. Then just tap through or stud it.
hotrodfeguy wrote:Yes they are a pain I have had FE engines with 42K miles break off !!! But still the best luch I have had was weld a oversize nut onto whats left. Then heat the top of the head that holds the rusted stud in. You are lucky cause the top ones even if you are to strike out can be drilled right through. Then just tap through or stud it.
"Beauty is only skin deep....Ugly is to the bone"
It is more important to understand what you don't know than what you do know,because then you can start to learn..???
"you must deal with the attaboys and the ass chewing s with your head up and looking them in the eyes" T.J.E. aka My Dad
There are only three types of people wolves, sheepdogs, and sheep. What are you?
Ok I was thinking something like but but wasnt sure. Thanks I hope it goes easy to its just been one problem after another. O well looks like its turning out to be a rebuild.
Joshua aka Young Gun FE - Famous Engine (Brandi) 72 F100 360 5.9L Sport Custom 6" Lift U.S. Army Veteran/11B
sweet.. looks good.. you should look around the area for anything else that needs replacing since the fender is off and you have easy access.. bushings, hoses.. shocks, etc.
Good job! It'll be worth it when you get to hear the headers!
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
and have kinda stoped to see how I will get this out. I have searched how to remove them and read all sorts: removeing the head, using vise grips, 90* angle drill, I was wondering what have worked well for you guys. I am willing to tare out the head but dont really want to 
, should I continue and try to get the rest out or what 
. 
I will try this tool my dad has hopefully it works.
Thanks I hope it goes easy to its just been one problem after another. 
