ENGINE WONT SHUT OFF!!!!!!

[Ranchero50]

Last thing first bro, what was the last thing you did before this calamity occured? Look there first...

As said above, make sure if you just changed the starter solenoid that the wires are hooked up correctly. Make sure you weren't aflicted with extra wires running under the dash that tied into the run circuit that may be getting back fed by something.

As Fordman said, you can unplug the ignition switch to isolate it.

Don't freak out and start a bunch of different threads with DRAMA, you'll just piss folks off.

You can check the wiring diagrams to make sure the starter solenoid is hooked up correctly. Some have two small terminals, make sure the starter wire isn't hooked up to the run terminal, etc.

Jamie

[basketcase0302]

I have power to coil with key off and with key on.

Still sounds like ignition switch to me.

When key in run position I get nothing unless I jiggle neutral safety switch.

And the neutral safety switch sounds like it's done also.
They're both pretty common parts that fail, most any autozune or disscount or peep boys should have them in stock.

[fordman]

I had a dream once that I couldn't shut off my engine and it was boiling over and then the radiator burst leaking and the engine compartment filled up with steaming hot water... and then I looked at the engine compartmetn and it was filled with water and I could still hear the motor running and burbling underneeth the water and it was steaming and bubbling... what should I do?

take swimming leasons.

[Hawkrod]

First thing to check is the solenoid. It can be checked easily and does not require any tools. There are two small wires attached to the solenoid. One of those wires is brown. Start the truck and then turn the key off. If the engine is still running unplug the brown wire from the solenoid. If the engine dies it is the solenoid at fault. If the truck keeps running it is the ignition switch. The solenoid is usually the problem. Ignition switches fail but not nearly as often as solenoids. The only caveat here is this test is assuming somebody did not splice a wire in somewhere that is causing the problem (like a radio wire spliced into the ignition wire and back feeding through the clock circuit). Hawkrod

[cep62]

I had a dream once that I couldn't shut off my engine and it was boiling over and then the radiator burst leaking and the engine compartment filled up with steaming hot water... and then I looked at the engine compartmetn and it was filled with water and I could still hear the motor running and burbling underneeth the water and it was steaming and bubbling... what should I do?

Stop eating alot of greasy, spicy, food before going to bed.

[Alvin in AZ]

Seems to me the sucker is getting voltage/current for the coil from the alternator somehow/somewhere.
It's one of those things that's easy to find using a volt meter -if you know how-. ;)

I saw this thread early on but lately I've been gettin a bad attitude towards those that are too lazy/sloppy
or just just don't care enough to fill out where they are from etc.

So where the hell are you? :/

Alvin in AZ (retired railroad signalape and used to hunt electrical trouble for a living using a meter)
ps- http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDeta ... Code=3389B

[basketcase0302]

TAMBORAINC,
cep62 and hawkrod are right about the starter solenoid. I'm still betting on the ignition switch being at fault though. I had a Maverick engine compartment catch on fire due to the solenoid not being grounded properly. Make sure it's bolted to the inner fender before you attempt to start the truck, and make sure you have a good engine to body ground wire, (usually at the rear of the engine / bolts to the firewall of the truck).
This is based solely on my "shadetree" expierence with them, and that I pictured your truck had been running the whole time since you had initially posted.

Guys, did the 67' truck even come with a NSS? I can't seem to find it in the above wiring diagram?

Ok I have power to coil with key off or on.

Sure hope you've gotten through the above issue, (or you've probably got a dead coil by now).

Would sure like to know what you found.

[mybros71]

I just wrote about this in another thread. If one of the nuts which secures the "s" or "i" post on the solenoid has backed out and allowed the post to slide in and contact the internal metalic parts of the solenoid this will happen. The magnet will hold it there and complete the ignition on and start circuits, regardless of what you unplug.

Tony

[knightfire83]

1 more vote for the solenoid. Disconnect the "I" terminal on the solenoid to confirm, the engine should stop running.

Power to the coil is coming from the "I" terminal on the solenoid when the ignition switch is off. It bypasses the resistance wire from the ignition switch and feeds the coil 12v directly upon start up.

It still runs when the battery is disconnected because the alternator is feeding the electrical system. (This is good.)

The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with getting power to the coil by itself. It is a switch that disconnects power from the ignition switch start position and the solenoid's "s" terminal, if in gear.

There is a large washer inside our solenoids operated by a electromagnet. It is held in the off position by a spring. When activated, the washer bridges the battery post and the starter post in the solenoid. The "I" terminal is feed off the starter post of the solenoid.

The spring can break or weaken and the washer can wear, corrode, and become off center which gets stuck and bridges the battery post and starter terminal. How much current it is able to pass while in this state will determine what the problem is:

- If it can pass allot of current, the starter will run continuously.

- If it can only pass a small amount of current, not enough to turn the starter, it will still power the coil enough to keep it running regardless of the ignition switch position. And yes, the starter will have power, but not enough to do anything. It doesn't take much voltage to fire the ignition coil.

If you drill out the rivets on the cover plate, you can disassemble the solenoid, clean the washer, and flip the side terminals for extended life. But then again, you can replace the thing for under $10.00.

Interesting post with everyone's ideas, did you solve your problem yet?

[TAMBORAINC]

Turns out the NEW solenoid was junk. Installed another one and so far so good
Thanks to everyone for helping me out, this is all to me

[austin]

I had a dream once that I couldn't shut off my engine and it was boiling over and then the radiator burst leaking and the engine compartment filled up with steaming hot water... and then I looked at the engine compartmetn and it was filled with water and I could still hear the motor running and burbling underneeth the water and it was steaming and bubbling... what should I do?

run

[basketcase0302]

[bb429power]

Usually if you have electronic ignition you need to install a dyode on the second wire down on the voltage regulator. Thats if it doesn't stop cranking over when your trying to start it. But if it is running and you shut it off and it isn't an electrical problem, it will still run but sound like it doesn't want to keep going. What happens is if you don't have a vapor return line from your carburetor to your tank the engine is still getting enough gas to run. If you do have exessive carbon buildup on top of your pistons or a low grade of gas this will also cause the problem. Even though there isn't any spark it will run off of compression like how preignition works. I use to have the same thing's happen to me on two different vehicles and it scared me that I didn't know what would happen since there wasn't really anyway to stop the engine run-on.

[Hawkrod]

Usually if you have electronic ignition you need to install a dyode on the second wire down on the voltage regulator. Thats if it doesn't stop cranking over when your trying to start it. But if it is running and you shut it off and it isn't an electrical problem, it will still run but sound like it doesn't want to keep going. What happens is if you don't have a vapor return line from your carburetor to your tank the engine is still getting enough gas to run. If you do have exessive carbon buildup on top of your pistons or a low grade of gas this will also cause the problem. Even though there isn't any spark it will run off of compression like how preignition works. I use to have the same thing's happen to me on two different vehicles and it scared me that I didn't know what would happen since there wasn't really anyway to stop the engine run-on.

In all the years I have been doing this I have never heard that one! Why would you need to do it? On a Ford the wiring for the start and run circuits are separate from the charging system circuit so there should be no way you would have issues. I have electronic ignition systems on almost all of my cars from a 40 Lincoln to all of my trucks and I have never had an issue with any (or the dozens of others I have converted for customers). What is the reason for the diode? Maybe you need it if you wire the ignition differently than you should by wiring it into the regular power circuits in the vehicle instead of the ignition circuits? I really don't quite understand the need for a diode. Hawkrod

[newmanville]

I WILL TELL YOU FROM EXPERIENCE. IT IS YOUR SILENOID. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, LOOKED AT ALL THE DIFFICULT PROBLEMS...REPLACED THE SILENOID AND ALL IS PERFECT NOW.