Brand new starter relay stuck on

[TAMBORAINC]

New starter relay and when I crank over engine it stays cranking unless I hit the relay with a hammer

[Dragon]

Get another one. Rare problem but the relay is probably not for your amperage starter.

[Hawkrod]

Be sure the relay is well grounded (the bolts must be good holding to the fenderwell). Also make sure you attached the brown wire to the I terminal and red/blue wire to the S terminal. There is a heavy duty Ford solenoid but all of the standard ones have the same amperage rating. The heavy duty ones are simply designed for a higher duty cycle. Hawkrod

[mybros71]

I just brought a truck home and added a battery and got her fired up. I found that after the engine started the starter would stay engaged and the key switch would not shut the engine off. Head scratching. After about 5 minutes of looking around, I found that the brand new starter solenoid was missing a nut on the "S" lug. The slip on terminal would hold it in place but when you hit the ign switch, the magnet would pull the lug into the body of the solenoid and keep the starter, and the ignition, engaged. 1- 10-28 nut later and the problem was solved. I came within about ten seconds of buying a new ign switch at Sac Vin Ford while I was there. I would have been bummed if I put it in and it didn't help.

[basketcase0302]

1- 10-28 nut later and the problem was solved.

And how were you able to make sure the post was turned in the correct position, (when tightening the new 10/32" nut)?
I've had the nut loosen on the main and starter posts(s) before. And it was kind of a "guessing game" as to what orientation the post needed to be in, when tightening it back into place.

[mybros71]

And how were you able to make sure the post was turned in the correct position, (when tightening the new 10/32" nut)?
I've had the nut loosen on the main and starter posts(s) before. And it was kind of a "guessing game" as to what orientation the post needed to be in, when tightening it back into place.

They usually have a square or hex head which fits into a molded or broached cavity in the plastic housing. I just turned it until it extended the same distance as the "I" post and made sure that it wouldn't turn. That part was easy.

And you properly corrected me on the thread pitch. But it was actually a 10-24 which I ran a tap through to make it work. 32-24=8 and 8/2=4 and 32-4=28 right?