Header paint

OldRedFord · Post by **OldRedFord** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:17 pm

What is the best header paint out there that is a DIY ordeal? Need to paint my headers.

Redcap · Post by **Redcap** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:49 pm

Unless you get it coated with something like Jet Hot, it is just going to cook off again.

OldRedFord · Post by **OldRedFord** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:57 pm

Even the VHT stuff?

Redcap · Post by **Redcap** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:33 am

OldRedFord wrote:Even the VHT stuff?

Yup, at least in my experience.

You could always get them coated, if form is a concern.

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 8:08 am

the parts store carry a spray paint that is a ceramic header paint.

Post by **Ranchero50** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:32 am

I've had surprising results with the Duplicolor Ceramic paints on the Mustang, flat black works very well for me. I did the complete hand fabbed exhaust on my friends '88 turbo coupe after the blown V8 swap and it still looks like new.

Note: this paint also worked great for flat black trim parts on the Fox mustangs. Once it dries, rub it with a cotton shirt and it gets a semi gloss sheen that looks original.

Jamie

Post by **DuckRyder** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:34 pm

VHT and Duplicolor are both quite good BUT the surface has to be absolutely free of contaminates.

OldRedFord · Post by **OldRedFord** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:12 pm

The headers are brand new. I took them out of the box Christmas morning and there was a slip of paper with the instructions saying the paint was only to protect them from rusting during being in inventory and shipping.

Post by **DuckRyder** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:23 pm

OldRedFord wrote:The headers are brand new. I took them out of the box Christmas morning and there was a slip of paper with the instructions saying the paint was only to protect them from rusting during being in inventory and shipping.

Excellent, however, you have to get ALL of that factory paint off, every single little spec of it. After they are clear bare metal, follow normal pain preparation steps and follow the directions on the paint. We did that with a set of Datsun 510 headers (or was it 240Z I don't recall) and they stayed pretty nice for several years. The collector where the tubes come together started to peel first (undoubtedly because they were the hardest area to clean and prep).

eggman918 · Post by **eggman918** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:32 pm

DuckRyder wrote:
OldRedFord wrote:The headers are brand new. I took them out of the box Christmas morning and there was a slip of paper with the instructions saying the paint was only to protect them from rusting during being in inventory and shipping.
Excellent, however, you have to get ALL of that factory paint off, every single little spec of it. After they are clear bare metal, follow normal pain preparation steps and follow the directions on the paint. We did that with a set of Datsun 510 headers (or was it 240Z I don't recall) and they stayed pretty nice for several years. The collector where the tubes come together started to peel first (undoubtedly because they were the hardest area to clean and prep).

surface prep. will make or brake the job,use disposable gloves degrease right before painting.also most high heat paints cure the first time they get above aprox.350 deg.if you can keep them clean while installing,then get them hot and it should be acceptable

Post by **70_F100** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:37 pm

Actually, to get the BEST results, install them just as they are, then drive the truck for a couple of weeks, so that the metal is heated and cooled for several cycles. Then, remove them and media blast them so that you have bare metal and a semi-rough finish for the paint to adhere to.

I've owned several sets of headers in my lifetime, and this was the only way I got truly satisfactory performance from any high-temp paint.

I know it sounds like a LOT of work, and it is. So, it's your decision as to how important it is to have the paint look good and stay on them.

eggman918 · Post by **eggman918** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:42 pm

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Re: Header paint

New postby 70_F100 on Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:37 pm
"Actually, to get the BEST results, install them just as they are, then drive the truck for a couple of weeks, so that the metal is heated and cooled for several cycles. Then, remove them and media blast them so that you have bare metal and a semi-rough finish for the paint to adhere to".
That sounds like a good plan that should get the desired results

r71f250 · Post by **r71f250** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:25 pm

in the next couple of weeks I am going to do ceramic hi temp headder paint that I can get from Amazon.com ( http://www.amazon.com/HIGH-HEAT-BLACK-O ... uto_text_b )for under $8 a can. I am going to spray with brake cleaner first, sand, wipe down with acetone, then coat with 2 coats and use a heat gun in the collector heat up for about 10 minutes, let cool and heat up again for 10 minutes and be done with it. This should help cure the paint. Also start up will be a big factor. I will run engine for about 10-15 minutes and let cool down and should work from there. Going to use black. I checked into Jet hot and 2 other coatings and I get different stories about coating headers inside and outside. I don't think you could coat the inside unless the cleaning process is perfect and actually dipping the headers. Also this will save me about $200+ to do myself. If you google you can find out about alot of what people have done with good results. Hi Temp BBQ paint I have heard of people having great results with too...

Blessings,
Alan

basketcase0302 · Post by **basketcase0302** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 6:30 pm

Sad to say...

I had my stock exhaust manifolds media blasted / hit anything that even looked like corrosion with an etching compound / wiped down with laquer / then 1200 degree extreme rustoleum primer / then 1200 degree rustoleum stove paint (black.

I don't really expect it to last, but it's what i could afford for now.
I had a set of headers ceramic coated about 6 months ago on the airboat. Yeah, they still look like new but for around $400.00 I needed more parts for the bump this time around.