Found Rubber debri under valve covers!!

[BobbyFord]

...and, if you ever have your heads rebuilt have the guides machined to accept the newer style valve seals so this doesn't happen again.

[OldRedFord]

What does that usually cost?

[BobbyFord]

What does that usually cost?

Not sure, every time I get it done, it's included in the price of the valve job. It's not that expensive but well worth it.

[1971ford]

Thanks for all the help.

I have valve seals on the way to Kragen, for $13. They also have a valve spring compressor that i will be using tomorrow. I will be pulling the heads, that way i can take a look at the cylinders/pistons for kicks, and i can replace those gaskets because i hate leaks, like everyone else.
So the Intake, heads, valley pan, oil pan, and the oil pump screen will all be pulled. I will use compressed air to blow out the oil drainbacks, and i will try and get out all the rubber pieces i can. Then new gaskets, and reassembly.
Sound goood?

[BobbyFord]

Sounds good, Ryan. As long as you have the oil pan off and the engine is out of the vehicle, may as well replace that rear main seal while you are in there.

[1971ford]

Inform me of this rear main seal... I guess your right, if its already on an engine stand in the garage i might as well... If it's not too big of a job.
And if i am going to replace the rear main seal its almost like i might as well just drop a 390 crank and rods in

[BobbyFord]

It's easy. Check this thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =3&t=46531
The lip of the rubber seal goes toward the front of the engine.

[1971ford]

Ive just ordered one as well
Thanks

[fordman]

1 idea that may work for you and save soem tiem. is to rebuild the motor you have on the ground, instead of swappignmotors and then rebuilding one and thend espping it back in.

[1971ford]

THe reason i got this 360 was to swap it in for 5 months as i build the 390, because the 390 is going to take about $1500 im guessing and i have about $100 right now...
And i will keep this engine forever for a spare because you never know when i will blow my 390 up. Anddd I might even use it to put in the '71 to make it legal for NORRA Mexican 1000 races...

[fuzzier1]

This is not an unusual issue.

The seals get old, they get hard, they crumble.

I've seen it literally hundreds of times. The rubber compounds used years ago did not have the same properties as what they are using today. Those compounds got brittle because of the constant heat and cool cycles of the engine. Eventually, they start to break apart, and it results in exactly the problem here.

I would just replace the seals, clean what you can off the heads, and blow compressed air through the drainback holes in the head. You could also wash down the heads with brake cleaner, if you want (probably a good idea). Then, pull the pan and clean out any debris there. While you've got the pan off, go ahead and replace the oil pump and clean the pickup screen well. Put it all back together, change the filter and fill it with oil. Drive it a couple hundred miles and change the oil again.

Yes I agree, my point is, don't just clean the tops of the head out and put it back together. There very well likely be crap (technical term) throughout. Essentially we are saying the same, you just spelled it all out. I guess I should have.

Fuzz

[1971ford]

WHere and how far do i need to look for crap?
I plan on pulling the heads and simply cleaning them really good, so those will be clear of any debri.
And i will pull the pan, do you think there will be a lot of debri in there too? I'll get all the crap out of there that i can, where should i blow air through on the block? Where are the oil ways and passages that this debri might be in that hsould be cleared?

[BobbyFord]

You will find a lot of crap in the pan. Generally blast some air around once you get the pan off. Blow air around the lifter valley, (dab up any pooling oil first with paper towels to minimize oil spray) where the oil drains back to the pan. Most people don't realize that there is a hole about the size of a dime in the center of the oil pump pick-up screen, under the flat piece of tin, this is where the bits get in and lock up the oil pump. If you do not replace the pump (because of cost) pull it off, pull the plate off the bottom and clean it out. Also, (if not replacing the pick-up) pull the pick-up off and tap the hell out of it on a piece of wood or something as soft, blast it with air and tap some more to dislodge any bits that may be stuck up under the flat piece of tin.

[1971ford]

Thanks, I'll pretty much look everywhere but i don't want to miss anything. I don't want my engine to go down ProformanceUnlimited style.
Hopefully this will all be done tomorrow, re-assembled, painted and I'll install it tomorrow if i don't have time today.

[1971ford]

Oh and what's this cap seal that came with my main bearing. It's two pieces of channel rubber, and two metal rods. It has very basic instructions and a drawing that i can't make out what's going on. It might be obvious when i am taking the thing apart but what exactly are these rubber pieces for?

Edit... or maybe i just toss them right in the garbage..
(From Main seal isntallation thread)

And throw the side seals and nails away, clean all parts meticulously and use "The Right Stuff" for the side seals.