240 with no spark

[The400-100]

So, my new 69 F100 has decided that it doesn't want to run any more. After all the body work and wheels and other love!
I have changed plugs, wires and coil wire. What if anything is the most likely thing to go on these old ignitions? I have traced all the wires and connections seem good. Coil next? Thanks for all help!

[basketcase0302]

Do you have a voltage meter to check for voltage to the coil?

[The400-100]

I do have a voltage meter. What should I expect to see for a healthy coil, and where do I put the two meter pins to test?

[fordman]

you want to see if there is voltage coming to the coil. and then to see if it is coming out of the coil . this is on the smaller terminals. you can also run your coil wire to a spark plug laying against the block and see if it gives out spark. it could just be a bad ground on the coil strap.

[The400-100]

So I have tested the coil both with a multi meter and by replacing it. Still nothing going on. I tried coil wire with plug grounded on bare metal at frame. Nothing. I am at a loss here. Is there anything between coil + and ignition key/switch that would not allow spark? Could the coil resistor be a culprit? The truck had been running great. I moved it out of the shop to mill some wood, went to move it back in and no go. No warning of impending doom. I'm running out of ideas...

[ForingaMex]

I tried coil wire with plug grounded on bare metal at frame. Nothing.

The engine cranks over but just won't run? To check if the coil has spark, don't ground it to the frame. Hold it about 1/4 of an inch from the frame or other ground source to see if it will spark (ark) across. To rule out a problem with the ignition switch or resistor wire, tie a wire straight from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil and start it to see if it will run. If it does than you've narrowed the problem area down to between the switch and coil.

[bb429power]

When ever someone has an ignition problem I always ask them. Is the condenser wire loose, frayed, crappy, or disconnected. That always seems to be the culprit of bad ignition. It should be a round canister under the distributor cap (jello mold) with a wire hooked up to it, then screwed down to the points on the other side of the wire.

[The400-100]

I didn't ground the coil directly, I put a spark-plug wire with a plug in it into the coil, then grounded the plug on the frame... I will check the condenser wire and try the battery to coil + jump technique. Thanks for the ideas.

[The400-100]

So, I just checked the dizzy, tried to crank with cap off, rotor no spin... Problem, no??

[The400-100]

I was in a rush typing my last post, so, to clarify: I tried cranking it over after checking the condenser and rotor. I had to clean some dust from the rotor and for some reason I felt I should crank it with the cap off just to make sure the rotor was turning. It isn't. I had heard some bottom end noise before and suspected that this motor was on it's way out. I am thinking it may now be done. Why would the distributor not let the rotor turn other than the shaft being sheared? The fan goes round and round when I crank, so I know the crank is turning, just not the distributor. I guess pulling the dizzy out will tell the tale?

[FreakysFords]

I guess pulling the dizzy out will tell the tale?

Yup. You might be lucky and someone put a plastic drive gear on the distributor......... Finding it stripped will explain that one.

Could also be the cam drive gear. If after you pull the distributor, you see no fault there, then it's time to pull the timing cover. (would explain the noise as well).

Pretty simple fixes, both ways.

If you do find a dead cam drive gear, I'd suggest dropping the pan as well (for a clean out).

Frank

[fordman]

jumped timing chain.

[cdeal28078]

Broke timing chain, cam or the roll pin holding the gear on the bottom of the cam. Maybe a stripped distributor gear.
If the timing chain just jumped a tooth the dist. would still turn it would just be out of time. I figure it is the timing chain.
Not a big deal though. Just a timing set, some gaskets and some work.
Pull the dist. out and check the gear at the bottom and make sure the pin is still good.
What a minute. This is a 6 cylinder right?
Never mind. I know nothing about them at all.
I should just delete this but it might help in some small way so I'll leave it
clint

[The400-100]

Either way, I guess I'm gonna have to bite the bullit and drive the 68 Chebby that my buddy offered until I get it pulled apart!

[fordman]

edit. on a 6 cyl it might be the timing gears. my bet is the dist gear or roll pin that holds the gear on. if it was a v8 i would say timing chain.