Cam Lube
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- OldRedFord
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Cam Lube
What is the best lube to use on your cams when putting the motor together? I was thinking of getting some Isky Rev Lube to coat the lobes and lifters with.
Then of course adding ZDDP to the oil for break in with something as GM EOS, or Crower ZDDPlus.
After the engine has been broken in and a few oil changes gone through it, do I need to still add ZDDP to my motor or no? Or would it be a good idea to keep adding it with every oil change?
Then of course adding ZDDP to the oil for break in with something as GM EOS, or Crower ZDDPlus.
After the engine has been broken in and a few oil changes gone through it, do I need to still add ZDDP to my motor or no? Or would it be a good idea to keep adding it with every oil change?
Tim
1972 F350 flatbed drw c6/390
1967 F600 project truck
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- iamthewreckingcrew
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Re: Cam Lube
Pretty sure you don't need to add the ZDDP after break in.
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302/c4/3.50
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- BobbyFord
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Re: Cam Lube
If you run Valvoline Racing oil, then you do not need to add ZDDP after your cam break in. Valvoline VR1 has enough zinc. I'm paranoid and will be running, Roush or Brad Penn break in oil (prolly with ZDDPlus), initially when I start my 460, then VR1 after that.
- convincor
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Re: Cam Lube
I use Shell Rotela-T. It still has 1200 ppm ZPPD and use the assembly lube from the cam supplier. Never had a failure.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/shell-r ... 62437.html
http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads ... 3#Post3166
From the shell forum: "Shell Rotella T Multigrade Oil SAE 15W-40 with Triple Protection Technology, our API CJ-4/SM specification product, typically contains about 1200 ppm zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorous as manufactured."
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/shell-r ... 62437.html
http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads ... 3#Post3166
From the shell forum: "Shell Rotella T Multigrade Oil SAE 15W-40 with Triple Protection Technology, our API CJ-4/SM specification product, typically contains about 1200 ppm zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorous as manufactured."
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- Dragon
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Re: Cam Lube
I use rotella 15-40 in my truck engine at every change.
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Re: Cam Lube
All I use. We use to use Molykote all of the time at the power company as a lub. on electrical breakers. These were 600-13.8KV breakers. Tough stuff. I still have a tub of itDragon wrote:I use rotella 15-40 in my truck engine at every change.
clint
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Re: Cam Lube
It sure is Tough stuff. Until I ran out every engine I built had silvery grey in the oil. I just haven't built any engines since I ran out. After my next job I am buying another container. It is getting close to the time to build one of my torque monsters.
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Re: Cam Lube
I'll second the Rotella. On the other hand...I've used just plain oil and have never had a problem.
Assembly lube might be a waste of money. I've used bearing grease and plain ol' Valvoline for that task and again...no failures to date. I would bet that the care and preparation you take in assembling an engine has more to do with it that what brand of lubrication you put on your bearing surfaces. Maybe the fancy stuff adds peace of mind?
Assembly lube might be a waste of money. I've used bearing grease and plain ol' Valvoline for that task and again...no failures to date. I would bet that the care and preparation you take in assembling an engine has more to do with it that what brand of lubrication you put on your bearing surfaces. Maybe the fancy stuff adds peace of mind?
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Re: Cam Lube
Well like I said MolyKote on everything made the day after race weekend look like new engine assembly there was so little wear. So that little cost was worth it plus in my classes both Drag and Road Course I was #1 or 2 all the time. So some extra little trick helped keep me there.
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Re: Cam Lube
The Isky rev lube is good stuff.
Most cam kits come with moly lube for the lobes - USE IT If you bought a cam or kit without it, buy a lube designed for the purpose, preferably from the cam manufacturer so that you don't get warranty grief if it fails.
FOLLOW the cam manufacturer's break in instructions and use a Zink (ZDDP) rich oil or additive.
Cam Shaft Lubricants at Summit
Edit: Oh, and word on the street is that EOS is no longer ZDDP rich.
Most cam kits come with moly lube for the lobes - USE IT If you bought a cam or kit without it, buy a lube designed for the purpose, preferably from the cam manufacturer so that you don't get warranty grief if it fails.
FOLLOW the cam manufacturer's break in instructions and use a Zink (ZDDP) rich oil or additive.
Cam Shaft Lubricants at Summit
Edit: Oh, and word on the street is that EOS is no longer ZDDP rich.
Robert
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Re: Cam Lube
Use something! All you have to do is go to Google and type in cam failure and break in and see how many cams have failed during break in the last couple of years. People say zinc was taken out of the oil. I don't know. I do know I have a friend that lost a comp cam cam during break in and they gave him trouble about it but finally warrantied it. The 5 5.0's I rebuilt one was a roller, the other 4 I used what came in the rebuild kit, Molly lube and Rottela and had no failures.
clint
clint
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- OldRedFord
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Re: Cam Lube
The cam came with lube, its just there is never enough for my liking. By the time y9ou get all the cam lobes covered good and the gear that drives the distributor I have used it all. None left for the lifters.
Thats interesting about the EOS. Guess Ill have to get something else, and some VR1.
Oh is 10w30 the same as 30 weight oil?
Thats interesting about the EOS. Guess Ill have to get something else, and some VR1.
Oh is 10w30 the same as 30 weight oil?
Tim
1972 F350 flatbed drw c6/390
1967 F600 project truck
1972 F350 flatbed drw c6/390
1967 F600 project truck
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Re: Cam Lube
I use the VR1 high zinc formula for the break in. It requires no additive and its the only oil that I use in my 69 Cougar. Its the best you can get.BobbyFord wrote:If you run Valvoline Racing oil, then you do not need to add ZDDP after your cam break in. Valvoline VR1 has enough zinc. I'm paranoid and will be running, Roush or Brad Penn break in oil (prolly with ZDDPlus), initially when I start my 460, then VR1 after that.

Justin
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http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=47482
http://s976.photobucket.com/home/bb429power/allalbums go to both of the albums.
1967 Ford F100 longbed with a 466 500+hp/600+ft-lbs (mine)
1969 Mercury Cougar xr7 with a 351w (dads, I helped alot)
1970 Ford Maverick with a 302 (became our drag car)
1986 f150 5.0 (my DD)
"Many can argue, but it takes a real man to apologize."-Me