How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

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1971ford
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How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by 1971ford »

First of all, i am not a pro, and this is just how i did it. If there is anything wrong with what i did then speak up.
I thought i might as well do a little tutorial on how to do the job of replacing valve stem seals. Here it is.
Maybe someone can put this up on bump wiki for me.

First, get your hands on one of thes handy tools. A Valve Spring Compressor. You can either buy it or borrow it if you have a local Kragen auto parts, I'm not sure who else rents these. It was free.
Image
Basically you've got the big C-Clamp deal and you adjust the rod with the t-handle to fit over your heads, so when you clamp down you can get a good clamp. It may take some adjusting. On the valve spring part of the tool you will probably have to loosen that nut almost all the way so that the jaws are big enough for our big valve springs.

So once you have adjusted the tool, its clamping time! :woohoo:
Like so:
Image
Image
Image
Actually, before i did any clamping i took a 3/4" socket and smacked every valve spring, which definately helped with compressing the spring. The ones i didn't smack at first sometimes wouldn't compress. After a quick smack they compressed fine.
The intake, and the exhaust valves have two different style retainers.
One looks like the above picture, which are two little circular retainer clips
And the other looks like this. It has the same two clips, however it also has another circular retainer that the two small clips must go inside of.
Image

Style 1.
Clamp down on the spring, and pull these two clips off.
Image
Then release the tension on the spring and pull the spring off.Now you can either pull your old seal off or you can, like in my case, clean the remaining pieces of the old valve seal off of the spring surface and valve stem. You can also pull your valve out if you want.
Bare valve stem. Notice the groove on the stem, the two little retainers on every spring assembly all have a groove (more like a bump) that fits into the groove on the stem.
Image
New seal:
Image
Then slip hte spring back on, and compress the spring once again.
Then grab the two little retainers and stick them onto the valve stem on that groove (the grease will hold them on enough). Then release the tension and the spring will push against the little retainers and you are done.

Style 2 is very similiar but has another retainer piece.
This time, during disassembly, when you have the spring compressed, grab a 1/2" socket and tap the circular retainer off of the little 2 retainers.
Image
Image
Image
Pull the 2 little pieces out, a magnet is great help here. Then slide the circular piece off and release the spring. Replace seal, set spring back on, compress spring, and then slide the outer retainer piece down onto the compressed spring. Then stick the two little retainer pieces on the valve stem like with the other style, and slowly release the spring. Just make sure the outer circle piece glides over the little 2 retainers and seats properly. You are done.
14 more to go :D
The first one took me 45 minutes, every one after that took me 2 minutes tops. It goes very fast when you get your system going.
-Ryan
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by robroy »

Hey Ryan, thanks for taking the time to write that! Those are fantastic photos also. All of what you wrote about is new to me so that was very interesting.

Robroy
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by mylifeswork »

Hello 1971Ford, Just one question, did you remove the cylinder heads for the purpose of only changing valve stem seals?
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by Ranchero50 »

You can do them on the engine by putting air into the spark plug hole (weld a chuck fitting to an old broken spark plug) or fill the chamber with 1/4" rope and put the piston up. For an FE you'll need to fab a bar (1.5" x.250 angle about 24" long and a 3" C channel mount that bolts to the valve cover bolt holes on the intake side of the head. Put the tip of the bar inside the C channel and mark it where the valve is so you can drill out a 3/4" hole in the bar. Use the bar to load the spring to unload the retainers and remove them. Pull the spring package off and unload the valve, put the valve about 1/2" into the head and wiggle the tip. Noticable movement isn't good

For a 302 with individual rockers you'll just need to make a bar with two holes, one to get nutted to the rocker stud and another to load the spring to remove the retainers.

This method saves a head gasket, but if the valve is moving around it won't make much difference in oil consumption.

Jamie
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by mylifeswork »

Ranchero50 you new where I was going. In the shop we used our cylinder leakage tester and I have a valve spring compressor that will work directly on the valve spring and retainer. I don't have to have to use the rocker shaft or bar. But whatever works is fine. I was just hoping the heads were pulled to only change valve stem seals.
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by 70_F100 »

mylifeswork wrote:Ranchero50 you new where I was going. In the shop we used our cylinder leakage tester and I have a valve spring compressor that will work directly on the valve spring and retainer. I don't have to have to use the rocker shaft or bar. But whatever works is fine. I was just hoping the heads were pulled to only change valve stem seals.
You can find out more about this one here:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =3&t=46557

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That's not an oil leak :nono: That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!! :thup:
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by 1971ford »

robroy wrote:Hey Ryan, thanks for taking the time to write that! Those are fantastic photos also. All of what you wrote about is new to me so that was very interesting.

Robroy
Hey Robroy, i figured even though many people might not need to do this they will still learning something about disassembling heads.
mylifeswork wrote:Hello 1971Ford, Just one question, did you remove the cylinder heads for the purpose of only changing valve stem seals?
Not necessarily, but that is half the reason. I wanted to replace all the top end seals since almost everything on this 360 leaked. I pulled the valve covers first and noticed the valve stem seals were no longer intact so i continued to pull the head to replace the gasket, replace the valve stem seals easier, and to check out the cylinders/pistons for fun.
Ranchero50 wrote:You can do them on the engine by putting air into the spark plug hole (weld a chuck fitting to an old broken spark plug) or fill the chamber with 1/4" rope and put the piston up. For an FE you'll need to fab a bar (1.5" x.250 angle about 24" long and a 3" C channel mount that bolts to the valve cover bolt holes on the intake side of the head. Put the tip of the bar inside the C channel and mark it where the valve is so you can drill out a 3/4" hole in the bar. Use the bar to load the spring to unload the retainers and remove them. Pull the spring package off and unload the valve, put the valve about 1/2" into the head and wiggle the tip. Noticable movement isn't good

For a 302 with individual rockers you'll just need to make a bar with two holes, one to get nutted to the rocker stud and another to load the spring to remove the retainers.

This method saves a head gasket, but if the valve is moving around it won't make much difference in oil consumption.

Jamie
Yeah i heard it was either air or pull the heads and i planned on pulling the heads anyways so i went with the valve spring compressor of course..
-Ryan
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by 1971ford »

mylifeswork wrote: I was just hoping the heads were pulled to only change valve stem seals.
I guess I don't know what you are getting at here. :?
70_F100 wrote:
mylifeswork wrote:Ranchero50 you new where I was going. In the shop we used our cylinder leakage tester and I have a valve spring compressor that will work directly on the valve spring and retainer. I don't have to have to use the rocker shaft or bar. But whatever works is fine. I was just hoping the heads were pulled to only change valve stem seals.
You can lead a horse to water, but... :dk:
Same here, the phrase throws me off. Now i feel nice and stupid :doh:
-Ryan
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by basketcase0302 »

Ryan,
mylifeswork wrote: I was just hoping the heads were pulled to only change valve stem seals.
I think mylifeswork meant to put the word "not" into that sentence?

Nice work, but i too wouldn't pull the heads just to change only the valve seals. Those retainers looked worn, and if you've got the heads off / and the valve springs loose / you've done all that's required to pull the valves and grind them. :2cents:

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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by robroy »

Hey Ryan, thanks for responding to my post!
1971ford wrote:Hey Robroy, i figured even though many people might not need to do this they will still learning something about disassembling heads.
You're absolutely right! And it's always interesting to learn something directly from somebody we know. Especially since the photos you took are actually a lot higher quality than nearly all photos that show up in various shop manuals! I forgot to comment on this in my initial post here, but your writing is also very good. Is there anything you are not good at!?

Last night I was reading through "How to rebuild BIG-BLOCK FORD Engines" by Steve Christ, and I came across the section where he describes these seals. It was very interesting to read through that stuff, since I'd already been introduced to this area by your great article!

Robroy
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by Ranchero50 »

Hey Ryan, I think the jist of these guys posts is if you are only using it for a little while you should not have opened it up. Now you have a can of worms and NOTHING you do will make it worth the expense of the new gaskets short of rebuilding it. The motor is dirty inside, full of loose carbon now, the top end was leaking. 100% sure the rings are leaking by too. Even new seals won't keep it from smoking if the valves are loose in the guides. Been there... Soo, after cleaning it up, $70 in haskets, $15 in paint to make it pretty and impress your friends it's still smoke on startup and not have much power too boot.

Personally since you are from the land of sun and fun I'd gather up a couple friend and go shopping at a U pull it on a $75 a wheel barrow load day and pull some valve covers off a bunch of FE's until you find a clean one, then sawzall the front end off and tip the motor into your cart and get out of there. Heck, even if you find a good clean (possibly rebiult) one and pull the intake and heads off to get it home you are that much better off.

You can't polish a turd buddy.
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by BobbyFord »

Ranchero50 wrote:Hey Ryan, I think the jist of these guys posts is if you are only using it for a little while you should not have opened it up. Now you have a can of worms and NOTHING you do will make it worth the expense of the new gaskets short of rebuilding it. The motor is dirty inside, full of loose carbon now, the top end was leaking. 100% sure the rings are leaking by too. Even new seals won't keep it from smoking if the valves are loose in the guides. Been there... Soo, after cleaning it up, $70 in haskets, $15 in paint to make it pretty and impress your friends it's still smoke on startup and not have much power too boot.

Personally since you are from the land of sun and fun I'd gather up a couple friend and go shopping at a U pull it on a $75 a wheel barrow load day and pull some valve covers off a bunch of FE's until you find a clean one, then sawzall the front end off and tip the motor into your cart and get out of there. Heck, even if you find a good clean (possibly rebiult) one and pull the intake and heads off to get it home you are that much better off.

You can't polish a turd buddy.
Jamie
But he IS getting some disassembly/assembly experience for his next engine. :thup:
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by 1971ford »

You guys are right i shouldn't of taken it apart at all, i just didn't want any leaks because i can't stand them. So i decided to replace all the upper gaskets and freeze plugs... just a waste of money though.
I've spent a total of about $90. But it was good practice tearing it down, and now it won't leak nearly as much for the next few months. I'm throwing it back together today, starting in a few minutes.
What will the main bearings start to hurt? The crank? Rods/pistons/cylinder walls? I guess we will see :D
-Ryan
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by mylifeswork »

You guys are right. The word not should have been in there. Sorry about that.
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Re: How to: Replacing Valve Stem Seals

Post by Ranchero50 »

Hey Ryan, I'll trade you...

I just pulled my '93 mustang into the garage. Who would have thought replacing a shot radiator cap would result in blowing both the radiator out and heater core...

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