Rough head exhaust surfaces, gaskets, and avoiding leaks.

[DuckRyder]

Now that my head surfaces are decent, if I were to go with the Hedman gaskets, wouldn't it be pretty easy to replace them later on if they turned out to leak? Isn't that a relatively minor job?

I've tried pretty much all the gaskets, the ones that turned out to work the best for me were the ones that came with my headers, and yes they are easy to replace.

I posted a number of pictures in the past, but they probably don't work anymore...

[fomocoguy]

Robroy, since you now have a machined head surface and you have a quality set of headers with a nice thick flange I think you would be just fine with the supplied gaskets. If not, as you stated it's really not a big deal to replace them when you have a newer engine such as yours. It really only gets tricky when the bolts are rusted in place with age.

[robroy]

Good day Robert and Joe, thanks for your superb replies!

I've tried pretty much all the gaskets, the ones that turned out to work the best for me were the ones that came with my headers, and yes they are easy to replace.

That's pleasing to hear! Thanks Robert.

I posted a number of pictures in the past, but they probably don't work anymore...

Okay doke!

Robroy, since you now have a machined head surface and you have a quality set of headers with a nice thick flange I think you would be just fine with the supplied gaskets.

Outstanding!

If not, as you stated it's really not a big deal to replace them when you have a newer engine such as yours. It really only gets tricky when the bolts are rusted in place with age.

Perfect.

So I'll go ahead with the Hedman gaskets!

Being able to check my options with you guys is truly valuable--thanks so much for your excellent guidance.

Robroy

[robroy]

Good afternoon!

I've lifted the driver's side header in to place, and just now realized that the Hedman instructions don't list torque values, nor do they indicate which side of the gasket should face the heads--one side of each gasket has "Hedman" printed on it while the other side's blank.

Regarding the torque, my 1972 Truck Shop Manual lists 12-18 ft/lbs for manifolds. Unless I hear otherwise I'll go ahead with that torque spec. The RemFlex gasket package says to torque those to 15-20 ft/lbs, so I'm guessing that 12-18 ft/lbs is perfectly fine for these Hedman gaskets.

Regarding the "Hedman" print on one side of each gasket, I'm guessing that it doesn't matter which way they go on, since it's not mentioned in the instructions. Unless I hear otherwise, I'll install them with the "Hedman" text facing the heads (so the words aren't visible once it's assembled).

Do y'all think I'm OK to go ahead with these choices?

Thanks very much for the wonderful help!
Robroy

[70_F100]

Robroy, you should be good to face the printing on the gasket either way. They are symmetrical and the material is homogeneous throughout the gasket.

As for torque, it's probably not possible to get your torque wrench on all of the bolts. 12-18, in my experience, will probably not be enough, and the bolts may have a tendency to work loose. I have always used the German spec on bolts like those. You know, Gutentite...

[robroy]

Good afternoon 70_F100! Thanks for your excellent reply.

Robroy, you should be good to face the printing on the gasket either way. They are symmetrical and the material is homogeneous throughout the gasket.

Excellent!

As for torque, it's probably not possible to get your torque wrench on all of the bolts.

Now that you mention this, I remember being unable to access a few of them! I had to use a hand wrench on nearby bolts and then judge the torque of the inaccessible bolt(s) by comparing 'em and guessing.

12-18, in my experience, will probably not be enough, and the bolts may have a tendency to work loose.

Okay! Well at least I know then that I shouldn't be starting lower than that spec! I might tighten them up a little after the engine's running.

I have always used the German spec on bolts like those. You know, Gutentite...

Understood! I'll not worry as much then about being insanely meticulous while torquing them.

70_F100, thanks for the fast, quality reply!
Robroy

[robroy]

Good evening,

Unless I hear otherwise, I'll install them with the "Hedman" text facing the heads (so the words aren't visible once it's assembled).

When I went to do this, I was amused to discover that the opposite's true; it's the side facing the headers that's invisible!

Here I just dropped the gasket in, on top of the bottom bolts on #5 and #8. Whoever came up with those slots on the header gaskets that allows them to be dropped in like this really had a great idea.



I could sneak the torque wrench on to all four upper bolts, and the lower bolt on #5--the other three bottom bolts I had to hand-tighten. While using the torque wrench I set the bolts to 15-17 ft/lbs.



And there it is!



Thanks for the fantastic advice!
Robroy

[robroy]

Good afternoon!

Yesterday I got the passenger's side header on; it sure is a lot easier to deal with!



Thanks again for all the fantastic help!
Robroy

[bb429power]

I was meaning to tell you to run a metal file over it which would show any high spots. Then you could file it flat, this should be done with any set of heads that aren't brand new.

[70_F100]

I was meaning to tell you to run a metal file over it which would show any high spots. Then you could file it flat, this should be done with any set of heads that aren't brand new.

The exhaust surfaces on the heads have been surfaced, which would give them pretty much the same surface as new heads, so there's no need to file them.

[bb429power]

I was meaning to tell you to run a metal file over it which would show any high spots. Then you could file it flat, this should be done with any set of heads that aren't brand new.

The exhaust surfaces on the heads have been surfaced, which would give them pretty much the same surface as new heads, so there's no need to file them.

I didn't know they were resurfaced. I must have skimmed over that part.

[Ranchero50]

I would have avoided the gaskets, thin bead of Ultra black and lock it down, 25-30 on the torque, Nord locks won't let those bolts go.

Robroy, are you going to test run it before putting the front clip on again?

Jamie

[robroy]

Good afternoon Justin, 70_F100, and Jamie, thanks for your excellent replies!

I was meaning to tell you to run a metal file over it which would show any high spots. Then you could file it flat, this should be done with any set of heads that aren't brand new.

Justin, thanks for your advice! This probably would have been a good idea on my old heads. As you know now, these heads had been freshly machined.

The exhaust surfaces on the heads have been surfaced, which would give them pretty much the same surface as new heads, so there's no need to file them.

Thanks for clearing this up 70_F100!

I didn't know they were resurfaced. I must have skimmed over that part.

That's OK! I can understand how it could be easy to miss that. So far this thread has actually dealt with two engine rebuilds: the doomed Proformance Unlimited rebuild, and the super nice FE Specialties rebuild. It would have been more clear if I'd had it painted a different color the second time around!

I would have avoided the gaskets, thin bead of Ultra black and lock it down, 25-30 on the torque,

OK, thanks for mentioning this Jamie! I'll remember this for the future, in case I have problems with the gaskets.

Nord locks won't let those bolts go.

Excellent! As (I think) you can see in the latest photos, I used Nord-Locks this time around also.

Robroy, are you going to test run it before putting the front clip on again?

In a way, yes! I'm going to minimally put the front clip together (radiator support and inner fenders) before test-running it, but definitely won't bother to build up the outer body parts until I'm confident that the engine's staying in there for a while!

I might test-run it with even less of the front clip installed, but I'm not sure where I'd hang all the wires and put the battery and everything; maybe I could leave the driver's side inner fender off.

So if the headers leak right away, I'll have a chance to take one or both of the inner fenders off to get easy access to them.

Justin, 70_F100, and Jamie, thanks for your fantastic replies!
Robroy