how to install new points and condenser
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how to install new points and condenser
Hey guys I have a seventies model sbf 302 in my 68 f100 and I have new points an condensers and I dont not know how to properly install them. Also do I need to gap my new spark plugs to 35? So how to install them? Also I installed a new fuel pump an I could not for the life of me get that stupid pre bend fuel line to connect an thread back into the new pump. Can I just use rubber hose for that line that runs from the pump to the carb? Or do I use that braided brake/fuel line with different attachment screw on pieces? Plz help.
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Re: how to install new points and condenser
the condensor is held in with a flathead pan screw. the points are held in with two flathead pan screws. to properly put the points in you cam to have the little cam inside the dist turned so that it is at its highest point to open up the points before you remove the old point. then you replace the poitns and gap them before you completely tighten down the screws to the points. my book says .30 for the plug gap. take one out and replace it at a time that way you dont mix up the wires with each other. or mark the wires when you take them off.
take the fuel line loose from the other end so it will wiggle around a little that may help get it to line up and thread in. or take it all the way off the carb and then put it in the pump first and the carb last.
take the fuel line loose from the other end so it will wiggle around a little that may help get it to line up and thread in. or take it all the way off the carb and then put it in the pump first and the carb last.
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Re: how to install new points and condenser
(Fordman must have posted his reply while I was writing mine...)
Glad to see you're not afraid to try something new! This Web page has information on points. http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generali ... 52502a.htm Page 2 tells how to change the points and condenser. If you need more information a Google search should get you what you need.
As for the fuel pump, getting the pre-bent line to line up can be very difficult. I sometimes end up bending it a little to make it work. If the threads match you should eventually be able to get it to fit. I don't have my truck near me right now so I can't look, but if there's a rubber hose that goes on the other end of the pre-bent tubing, try disconnecting it so you can move the tubing around easier. Another thing you could try is loosening the bolts on the fuel pump so it wiggles a little.
You should set the gap in your new spark plugs. The earliest book I have is for a 1970. It shows that the gap on a 302 2V should be .030. After setting the gap, just remove the old ones and replace them with the new ones. There's torque specs but I just get them snug.
The dwell angle should be 24-29 and the point gap .021. Using a feeler gauge is O.K. if you don't have a dwell meter but a dwell meter is more accurate. When using a dwell meter, use a push button starter mechanism and set the points with the distributor cap off rather than starting the engine as I used to do.
Glad to see you're not afraid to try something new! This Web page has information on points. http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generali ... 52502a.htm Page 2 tells how to change the points and condenser. If you need more information a Google search should get you what you need.
As for the fuel pump, getting the pre-bent line to line up can be very difficult. I sometimes end up bending it a little to make it work. If the threads match you should eventually be able to get it to fit. I don't have my truck near me right now so I can't look, but if there's a rubber hose that goes on the other end of the pre-bent tubing, try disconnecting it so you can move the tubing around easier. Another thing you could try is loosening the bolts on the fuel pump so it wiggles a little.
You should set the gap in your new spark plugs. The earliest book I have is for a 1970. It shows that the gap on a 302 2V should be .030. After setting the gap, just remove the old ones and replace them with the new ones. There's torque specs but I just get them snug.
The dwell angle should be 24-29 and the point gap .021. Using a feeler gauge is O.K. if you don't have a dwell meter but a dwell meter is more accurate. When using a dwell meter, use a push button starter mechanism and set the points with the distributor cap off rather than starting the engine as I used to do.
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Re: how to install new points and condenser
Thanks for that I also on my distributor I have to valve openings I believe its a push pull type system. But not shore. Where would I need to run those hoses from the distributor to? The carb sounds right. I have a holley 4bbl 600 cfm.
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Re: how to install new points and condenser
The carb and engine must be setup for advance and retard. The Advance comes off a port on the metering block at the front of the carb up high. Look at the black hose on the carb in this picture.
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Old Fords Rule
Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away.
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Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away.

My Gallery
Spark test