bad ignition module???

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ccryder2011
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bad ignition module???

Post by ccryder2011 »

i have a 67 bumpside with a 68 289 hipo with mallory pro comp ignition that has optically fired module... if this goes bad will i lose spark...???? i tried everything else and cant get it to fire..it ran fine a couple days ago but now it wont spark when cranking it but it wants to fire when key goes back to run position
remember the key is to start what you finish....lol....happy cruising...

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cep62
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Re: bad ignition module???

Post by cep62 »

With the Uni lite once the module goes bad there's no spark at all.
If it wants to fire with the key in the run position I would check for power when cranking.
One thing you could do is leave the key on and jump the starter solenoid and see if it starts.
Make sure it's not in gear first.
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Re: bad ignition module???

Post by Dragon »

There is a wire that comes off the I post of the starter solenoid.It provides power during the start cycle to the coil. It sounds like it is not hooked up.

With the Mallory unilite you can power the module from direct power off the switch instead of the resistor wire as long as you use an Accel coil 8140. You will still need the solenoid power to get started due to the design of our ignition switch.
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ccryder2011
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Re: bad ignition module???

Post by ccryder2011 »

what else besides the module will cause loss off spark during start cycle
remember the key is to start what you finish....lol....happy cruising...

1967 f-100 sb,mine
2007 subararu wrx,son#1
2003 mitsubishi eclipse,son#2
2007 mercedes E 350,wifes
cep62
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Re: bad ignition module???

Post by cep62 »

A bad module will cause a loss of spark all the time.
If you have power to the coil with the key on but not with the engine cranking it might be a simple broken wire or a bad ignition switch .
Test for power at the coil with a test light or a volt meter.
Also check for spark at the plug wire.
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Re: bad ignition module???

Post by bb429power »

There is a way to test the box, it involves pulling the coil wire off of the distributer and setting it next to a metal part. At one of the connections coming out of the box (closer to the box and might be like orange and purple or something, it depends on the brand) you put a spliced wire in the one side with the power on, and then put it in the other side of the same end of the connection. The spark should jump from the coil wire to a metal part, if not, the box could be bad and probably is. But you might have to try around doing this to make sure you tested the right connection. It happened to me with a MSD box. :thup:
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Re: bad ignition module???

Post by Dragon »

If it sparks at all it is not the module. If it starts in run the switch is good as long as the motor turns over in the start position. So the only place left is the Solenoid wire not getting to the coil + wire during cranking.
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ccryder2011
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Re: bad ignition module???

Post by ccryder2011 »

got the new module and all is good in bumpland...lol..probably need the power filter too....its on the way....
remember the key is to start what you finish....lol....happy cruising...

1967 f-100 sb,mine
2007 subararu wrx,son#1
2003 mitsubishi eclipse,son#2
2007 mercedes E 350,wifes
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Re: bad ignition module???

Post by cdeal28078 »

Dragon wrote:There is a wire that comes off the I post of the starter solenoid.It provides power during the start cycle to the coil. It sounds like it is not hooked up.

With the Mallory unilite you can power the module from direct power off the switch instead of the resistor wire as long as you use an Accel coil 8140. You will still need the solenoid power to get started due to the design of our ignition switch.
That is exactly what I thought of. One wire being off the start solenoid or the 2 wires crossed over. I crossed mine once and it acted just like that. It would turn over and fire once or twice just as you relased the key from start

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