Running Cold

Engine, ignition, fuel, cooling, exhaust

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FLATBEDFORD
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Re: Running Cold

Post by FLATBEDFORD »

I think it is the bi metal spring. In the summer it works OK. In the colder weather it seems to stay open. I replaced the heat tubes with copper tubing a few years ago. I'm thinking that going electric would make it easier to deal with.
Steve

1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013

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OldGuy
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Re: Running Cold

Post by OldGuy »

I installed an electric choke on my 2100 carb works great 20 mins work to install.

Holley sells the cap #45-258 then you run a ground wire to a screw on the choke housing, then run power wire to the alternator stator terminal marked "S" at 12 o'clock-ish position on back of alternator. (made my own wires and connectors) The stator is only hot when alternator is running. Perfect!

http://holley.com/45-258.asp

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Hope that helps.
1971 F-100 Ranger 360 auto LWB 2WD 90,000 orig. miles
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FLATBEDFORD
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Re: Running Cold

Post by FLATBEDFORD »

Thanks, OldGuy.
Steve

1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013

My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
jamesobryan
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Re: Running Cold

Post by jamesobryan »

I don't have the part number handy, but I just ordered it off of the AutoZone website. If you look for the choke thermostat for a 74 f100 with the Ford carburetor (Autolite 2100) you should see it. there is only one available on the site.

Now that I have the choke adjusted properly and the idle mixture right it works great.
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