valve spring compressor for 390? BIG PROBLEM?

[70_F100]

Well guess I am going to call Tom at FE Spec. Monday and go over what I emailed him back in July and see if we can still do what he gave me an estimate for and hope fully I can get a turn around in about 2-3 weeks...

Look at the bright side. At least you haven't ordered your parts yet!!

Now the real problem. I have 7 headder bolts that have been soaking for about a week and they are not going to budge

Any suggestions?

Don't worry about them. Since you're going to have the heads off, it won't be any trouble to drill them out. I'm sure Tom has removed a few in his time...

[TNIceWolf]

No engine sits for very long and just fires up and runs perfectly or without incurring some damage. An FE was built to work daily...period. As far as the header bolts....and I assume that you are talking about the flange to head bolts............thats just a fact of life with an FE.......are some things you can do to minimize the seizure.....but just letting one sit and not exercising the bolts and [not] keeping them coated with anti sieze compound never helps.

Edit

[OldRedFord]

No engine sits for very long and just fires up and runs perfectly or without incurring some damage. An FE was built to work daily...period. As far as the header bolts....and I assume that you are talking about the flange to head bolts............thats just a fact of life with an FE.......are some things you can do to minimize the seizure.....but just letting one sit and not exercising the bolts and keeping them coated with anti sieze compound never helps.

Why would keeping them coated with anti sieze not help?

[fordman]

it gets hot and stops working.

[r71f250]

"70_F100
Look at the bright side. At least you haven't ordered your parts yet!!
Don't worry about them. Since you're going to have the heads off, it won't be any trouble to drill them out. I'm sure Tom has removed a few in his time...

Glad I did not wait to order the parts now, thats for sure.... Also I have worked at the hedder bolts and on both sides I have 4 that won't come loose, so I hope I can break them off or its going to be hard to cut them off.

"TNicewolf
No engine sits for very long and just fires up and runs perfectly or without incurring some damage. An FE was built to work daily...period. As far as the header bolts....and I assume that you are talking about the flange to head bolts............thats just a fact of life with an FE.......are some things you can do to minimize the seizure.....but just letting one sit and not exercising the bolts and [not] keeping them coated with anti sieze compound never helps.

Guess the engine sat too long eventhough it was in the garage... The engine was rebuilt in 85, but guess thats what I get for cutting cornors... I figured the heads would burn off the anti-seize so I never used it, the residue my help, I will use it next time...


While I'm at it, going to pull trans and do a rebuild (has less then 20k on the last rebuild) and if I have the extra $ going to put in a Gear Vendor overdrive and shorten the driveshaft (I may have to modify the aux saddle tank on the drivers side). Gonna go through and going to order new rotors, new calipers, master cylinder, brakes, turn rear drums, new bearings, seals, brake hoses, rear end fluid change, replacing steering gear, KYB shocks, adding steering stablizer (2wd), and ordering tires from discount tire...

Now I am going to be into this about 12k... Going to keep the the bottom end a 390, but maybe like RobRoy, the block might take a over bore for 428 pistons.... boy ohhh boy.... I was going to start on my 67 chevelle that I have been waiting for 15 years to redo (still have my 1st car, 23 years ago) and thats going to be on hold now till summer....

Thanks to everyone for the help and advice... any other help or suggestions I welcome at this point....

Blessings,
ALAN

[ToughOldFord]

Bent push rods is no reason to rebuild an engine. Are the valves that bent them still stuck? If so free them up and replace the push rods. If they're already freed up just replace the push rods and go. If the engine only has less then 2K on it I wouldn't throw money away to rebuild it again.

[r71f250]

Bent push rods is no reason to rebuild an engine. Are the valves that bent them still stuck? If so free them up and replace the push rods. If they're already freed up just replace the push rods and go. If the engine only has less then 2K on it I wouldn't throw money away to rebuild it again.

I was going to due this but it appears one exhaust valve is either burned or bad I think its #3, air is leaking through the exhaust valve. I noticed when I started and let it run about a week ago in the garage at night I had 2 header pipes that were glowing red. #3 intake push rod is bent, so it appears that because the bent intake pushrod (valve lift is probably about .100, this caused a lean condition and cause some damage to the exhaust valve. Number 2 is probably the same, but valve is so far intact. So I guess instead of trying to improve a 25 year old rebuild its better to do a complete rebuild eventhough the finances are going to be shorter then I expected.... I can't complain too much its a 40 year old truck mostly original... I believe the 20 years of sitting has caused more problems then I had originally thought.... thanks for the thoughts...

Blessings,
ALAN

[r71f250]

Well got the chance to inspect the the motor further. All the push rods are bent. Some worse then others. I have a couple of valves that are sticking. Here's what I think happened. The motor had not been started in 9 years, started almost 2 years ago and fired it about a dozen times since and ran for a few minutes at a time. Eventhough the truck was in a enclosed climate controlled enviroment. when I tried starting it, the motor would fire then die. Traced to a bad fuel pump. Replaced fuel pump. Got it started, ran for 10 minutes. Upon shut off it dieseled and could not get it to shut off. Got video of it on my phone somewhere if I remember. My kids thought it was funny, I did not, but hey when your a kid it is. Finally shut off. 1st there was still some bad gas in the tank even though it was not much. I added 2 gallons of fresh gas. The valves I believe were very tough to open and this was a cause. Also, the 3-4 minutes of dieseling probably did it in. I should have known better

Going to put things on hold for Tom at FE Specialities. I want to do everything right and going to rebuild trans, all new brakes, rotors, drums, calipers, master cylinder, booster, suspension, Gear Vendor, accesories and probably do a 428 with alunimum heads. Now I am looking at about 13-15k do do it all and wait for paint later. Paint it almost 40 and still in great shape, but I want it better. Bummer... Motor going for rebuild in spring. Going to get everything else done except engine and trans. Thanks to everyone for all the help & advise. You all saved me some $$$.....

Blessings,
Alan

[cdeal28078]

Bent push rods is no reason to rebuild an engine. Are the valves that bent them still stuck? If so free them up and replace the push rods. If they're already freed up just replace the push rods and go. If the engine only has less then 2K on it I wouldn't throw money away to rebuild it again.

I agree completely. Work on freeing the stuck valves and replace the puch rods. Theleak at the exhaust valve could be nothing but some trash stuck in the seat and might clear right up.
Before spending gobs of money I would get it running and then see what it really needs.
But I don't have a lot of money so I choose the less exspensive way you when I can.
clint