Moderators: Ranchero50, DuckRyder
my 390 requires that I cover 60% or so of my radiator to keep temp at 180 in winter. But I have cold air intake,the 390 has always been "cold blooded"ToughOldFord wrote:And if you do not already know, check that you have a thermostat and it's of a proper temp, 185 or above. 160 is too cold for anything.
My truck was the same way when I lived in Montana. There's so much open area in front of the radiator that it's hard to keep them warm in extreme cold temps.my 390 requires that I cover 60% or so of my radiator to keep temp at 180 in winter. But I have cold air intake,the 390 has always been "cold blooded"
Stupid question, maybe, but how do I check this??ToughOldFord wrote:And if you do not already know, check that you have a thermostat and it's of a proper temp, 185 or above. 160 is too cold for anything.
The thing is, when the temps warm up, the timing and carb adjustment seem fine. And really, it's not abnormal to have 40° temperature swings from one week to the next here, or even 30° temp differences between day and night. Now, the other day it was 18° outside (daytime high). Thurday it's supposed to be 49°. Today it was in the 30's, and it ran like crap.mlheppl wrote:I'm of the understanding that an engine will generate more HP (I would translate that to running better) if the air coming into the carb is colder. Hence the demand for cold air intake systems on newer vehicles.
Not claiming to be an expert or even a decent shade tree mechanic for that matter, but it seems to me that this problem would be corrected by adjusting the carburetor, and possibly the timing if the carb adjustment doesn't resolve the issue.
the slorkel had a valve in it it opened when it warmed upSupermike wrote:The thing is, when the temps warm up, the timing and carb adjustment seem fine. And really, it's not abnormal to have 40° temperature swings from one week to the next here, or even 30° temp differences between day and night. Now, the other day it was 18° outside (daytime high). Thurday it's supposed to be 49°. Today it was in the 30's, and it ran like crap.mlheppl wrote:I'm of the understanding that an engine will generate more HP (I would translate that to running better) if the air coming into the carb is colder. Hence the demand for cold air intake systems on newer vehicles.
Not claiming to be an expert or even a decent shade tree mechanic for that matter, but it seems to me that this problem would be corrected by adjusting the carburetor, and possibly the timing if the carb adjustment doesn't resolve the issue.
So point being, if I adjust the carb for today, it would be "off" again tomorrow or next week, if that's the issue. Given that it's a cold-weather thing, I'm thinking it's just too dang cold. So maybe the problem is that I'm not keeping it at 180° in the winter. I guess covering some of my radiator would help... but using what? Cardboard?
And are you guys saying that the big 'ol air cleaner in the winter would NOT be an issue? If that's the case, why did they have the snorkel going to the manifold if they didn't want it sucking in warm air?
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It sounds like you are doing it right and saying it wrong. When you pull out the knob, you are choking the engine. What happens when you choke the engine? You are limiting the air to the carb or closing the breathing hole. Same as when Homer chokes Bart, he's cutting off his air.Supermike wrote:LOL! Reverse terminology, I guess... by "Open" I meant the choke pull/button is all the way out. By "closed" I meant that the button was pushed all the way in. That's how I've always described open/closed... I guess because my grandpa did it that way. Pull it out to start (as necessary), push it in once it's running.Sam I Am wrote:I don't want to seem too nit-picky here, but once the engine is warm, the choke should be opened all the way.Supermike wrote:I have to run with the choke opened up a bit, and it acts like it's missing a little or struggling to maintain power. It seems to be drinking gas, too (more so than usual).
You close the choke to start, and open it once warm.
Hopefully that's what you meant and you haven't been driving around with the choke mostly closed but "opened a bit", which would also cause the symptoms you describe.
That make better sense?