@#$% thing won't start

[SoCalExile]

IT'S ALIVE!

After making a trip to the local fun shop I got it to TDC, which put the dizzy pointed right at #1 as shown in the pic above - one plug clockwise. Sheesh.

Plugged the open vacuum ports with rubber caps too. she fired right up. Ran rough but still better than when I nursed it home. It still needs to be timed with a light and the carb needs tuning.

there was a strong tap coming from the driver side valve cover. Also, there's alot of blue smoke coming from the exaust manifolds/spark plug area once it warms up. Gaskets maybe?

I also noticed when I was adjusting the ide screws on the passenger side that there was a tiny blue spark when my screwdriver touched the carb body - looks like I need to check my grounds, but I also had the tool laying across the plug wires.

BTW, there's a 3"x3" (give or take) square box under my passenger side horn, with a wide wire connector attached to one side. What is that?

[knightfire83]

The box below the horn on the passenger side is your voltage regulator.

If you're getting spark from your spark plug wires going thru a screwdriver from just being on top them, then it's time to replace the wires. This would also be another reason your truck isn't running correctly.

You may even be able to start it up at night in the dark and see little sparks coming off the wires where they are shorting out at.

Glad to see you made progress !!!!

[SoCalExile]

Thanks for the help!

That voltage regulator may be bad, it was unplugged and quite worn when I first looked at it and plugged the cable back in.

i'll have to check my radiator for bubbles and my oil for water, but other than that, how can I tell the difference between a bad exhaust manifold gasket, Valve gasket, or head gasket?
The wife thought the smoke smelled a little like burnt rubber rather than burnt oil.

[knightfire83]

Your blue smoke coming from the exhaust manifolds/spark plug area once it warms up is likely just oil from leaking valve cover gaskets.

When it gets hot the oil starts to burn off. Some times you can just tighten the bolts holding the covers on to stop a leak, but don't go nuts or you'll warp them. Other times you have to replace the gaskets... Cheap and easy.

Bad exhaust manifold gasket= high pitched tic tic tic tic tic tic coming from the leaking area when running. Sometimes you can see black carbon deposits around where it is leaking. Some manifolds use a "doughnut" gasket where the exhaust pipe meets the manifold also, can do the same thing. Fair Warning: If you go to replace manifold gaskets the mounting bolts could snap off in the head when you try to remove them.

Bad valve gasket Valve cover gasket? = Leaks oil

Bad head gasket= Steam or water dripping from the exhaust pipe, water in the oil, bubbles in the radiator, low compression on two adjoining cylinders, external or internal coolant leaks.

[knightfire83]

Oh, just had another thought..... Why was the voltage regulator disconnected?

I only ask because hopefully that burnt rubber smell reported by your wife isn't burnt plastic from melting wires.

Could it be that the previous owner disconnected it due to problems like that?

Either way, your battery wont charge with it disconnected.

[SoCalExile]

Oh, just had another thought..... Why was the voltage regulator disconnected?

I only ask because hopefully that burnt rubber smell reported by your wife isn't burnt plastic from melting wires.

Could it be that the previous owner disconnected it due to problems like that?

Either way, your battery wont charge with it disconnected.

Who knows why it was unplugged. The wiring under the hood in general looks like it needs to be replaced.

[SoCalExile]

No bubbles in the radiator. *whew*

However when you try to rev it up quickly it wants to die. If you slowly give it gas it will respond like it should.

Here's a vid of it in action. Sorry about the poor lighting and sound:

[sacramento_ford]

one time my truck wouldnt start, i replaced, carb, coil, points, mechanical fuel pump, the whole time is was the dam points closed on me,.

[knightfire83]

Still sounds like your engine is not timed right, I would get a timing light and set that correctly first. Secondly, adjust the carb. idle mixture screws for the best idle. (2-3 turns out) The backfiring in the video indicates incorrect timing and or a lean running condition.

"when you try to rev it up quickly it wants to die. If you slowly give it gas it will respond like it should."

Usually describes the accelerator pump not working. This is what squirts a bit of fuel into the throat of the carb when you push on the gas pedal. It compensates for the carb when it changes from the idle circuit to the main fuel circuit. A diagram of the pump is attached below.

To check this have the engine OFF and look down inside the carb with a flashlight. Move the throttle and there should be a visible squirt of fuel in both venturies. If not, there a problem.

The parts to fix this problem are in a carburetor rebuild kit, but might as well rebuild the whole thing if you gotta buy that.

Here's a tutorial about doing just that:
http://www.hurtle.com/cars/mustang/fixes/carb/

You'll have this thing purring like a kitten before long....

[SoCalExile]

Sorry about the late reply.

I did some work on it. Here's the full update:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 39#p428739

Drove it around the neighborhood too, once it warmed up the smoke and water went away - although the truck still sputtered and popped when I put my foot in it. I picked up a vacuum tester and did a running test. It idles at somewhat steady 19 psi and dips to 12-13 when I give it gas before going to 22 or so until I let off. Strangely the truck seems to rev better when I'm working the throttle body than it does when I'm working the gas pedal.

Is it normal for the motor to dip in psi when it's given gas?

[70_F100]

Sorry about the late reply.

I did some work on it. Here's the full update:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 39#p428739

Drove it around the neighborhood too, once it warmed up the smoke and water went away - although the truck still sputtered and popped when I put my foot in it. I picked up a vacuum tester and did a running test. It idles at somewhat steady 19 psi and dips to 12-13 when I give it gas before going to 22 or so until I let off. Strangely the truck seems to rev better when I'm working the throttle body than it does when I'm working the gas pedal.

Is it normal for the motor to dip in psi when it's given gas?

A vacuum gauge does not measure PSI, it measures inches of mercury (in Hg).

The vacuum will drop when the throttle is opened, because you are equalizing the pressure from outside of the intake with the vacuum inside of the intake.

Your numbers are well within specs.

[SoCalExile]

Good to know. Thanks.