Building my 360/390 for towing

[1971ford]

Well, there is no such thing as stock car pistons, as the 360 was only available in trucks. They also come up on ebay quite often for 50-100 dollars so I would watch there. With the factory heads you should make just over 9:1, so that shouldn't give you any detonation problems. To build it into a 390 you will need a set of 390 rods. 390 crank, 390 rods, and 360 pistons make for a 390 4barrel car engine. 360 rods are too long and will cause the pistons to hit the heads. I think with the higher cr and 30 more cubes that you would be ok with headers. I think my 360 actually lost a little bit of low end when I installed headers and complete 2.25" duals, but it's totally stock otherwise. It will probably have about the same torque and maybe a few extra hp with them, but if you had some good stock manifolds lying around it would be just fine. If I were you I'd find a good set of junkyard stockers and have them resurfaced, then do a 3" single diameter pipe.

Ok, so just stock 360 pistons. Just like the ones i pulled out of the 360. So i could re-use them, if i don't bore the cylinders out correct? What would you do, use stock 360 pistons or get the hypereutectic ones right off ebay? They should be just about the same price, maybe it's just preference. But i don't have a preference being that i don't know enough about them. And maybe Kragen will have the 390 rods. Or what if i stumble across used ones, is it OK to run used ones or is that a no-no.
And i suppose i will sell the EDC heads and put the stock ones back on.
And i will look for a set of used manifolds at the junkyard or something. That really doesn't seem like something fun to pull at the junkyard though, and the risk of getting an exhaust leak.

-The suggested cam on summitracing. Doesn't give it's specs but the part number is correct. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-16915/
-Stock/performer intake
-360 stock pistons or hypereutectic ones??
-390 rods. Used on ebay.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/390-FORD ... 673wt_1165
-Holley 600/vacuum secondaries http://www.holley.com/0-1850C.asp
-Used stock exhaust manifolds
-Stock heads

After those questions are summed up, next is machining. Should i have any machining done besides the usual clean up?

[fomocoguy]

Oh, one thing I forgot is that you have to make sure the pistons are the partial skirt design. If your stock ones are full skirt they will not work. If you have to by new ones I would just pick up the trw's. See if you can figure out what cc your heads are, then check back on the link I gave you for the pistons. It gives the cr's according to what heads you have (just to be sure). Used rods are ok, but if you want to be sure about them I would have them resized by the machinist. Considering your budget I would just check the pin fit and make sure the small ends aren't worn out and then be sure and plastigauge the big ends when you install the new bearings.

As for machining you should at least have the bores checked and bored if necessary, have it crack checked, install new cam bearings, install new freeze plugs, and have the deck checked to be sure it's square and even. The crank needs to be checked and possibly turned too. Of course you could do much more, but we are on a budget here....

[fomocoguy]

BTW, if there is any ridge whatsoever it will need the cylinders machined. The pistons will now travel up to zero deck, but they used to stop short (which is how the lower cr was achieved). The new pistons and rings will hit the existing ridge and wear out rapidly.

[1971ford]

Thanks..
I think i would call these partial skirt, but just to be sure, here is a picture i found

The cylinder rust isn't bad so i think i might be using those pistons.

Remember im a noob, what are cc's? cubic centimeters And i don't know what cr's are either.
And are you talking about my stock heads or the edc ones?
If it is a number stamped on it then it is 60.90 for the edc heads but i have no idea if that's it.

Thanks, you're helping alot with this. I should be ordering these parts in about 3 weeks.

BTW, if there is any ridge whatsoever it will need the cylinders machined. The pistons will now travel up to zero deck, but they used to stop short (which is how the lower cr was achieved). The new pistons and rings will hit the existing ridge and wear out rapidly.

i noticed the ridges and heard that they need to be absolutely gone so i scrubbed at them and i can just barreely feel a slight ridge so hopefully the honing should take care of that.

[fomocoguy]

cc's is cubic centimeters of chamber volume in the head. You should be able to figure it out by doing a little research on the year the heads were manufactured. cr is just short for compression ratio.

And yes, those are partial skirt pistons!

[1971ford]

hmm ok.
I found this on ford-trucks, guy says it is straight out of his big block rebuild book.
EDC, EDC-E 1958 332,352 69.0-72.0cc
According to the TRW link, the CR would be about 9.62:1
edit: oops thats the EDC heads. I think i was suppose to be looking up the stock heads?

So I think that is just about the last of the questions before ordering parts. Then you guys can help me put this thing together My dad has rebuilt engines before so we shouldn't be totally lost.

Heres the list of what to get for the build, maybe skim it to make sure it sounds right, and that i am not missing anything.
-Crower Baja Beast cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-16915/
-Performer intake
-360 stock pistons if no boring is needed (block already bored .020 over), If it is needed, then hypereutectic ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/360-390- ... 3419wt_939
-390 rods. Used on ebay.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/390-FORD ... 673wt_1165
-Holley 600/vacuum secondaries: http://www.holley.com/0-1850C.asp
-Used stock exhaust manifolds from junkyard
-Stock heads

Oh and i almost forgot about the little but important things.
Where could i get all the gaskets i'll need? Or is there a rebuild kit that has all the gaskets and bearings and such?
Do piston rings come with the pistons you think? Or would i really have to get those separate?
How about Freeze-plugs, Kragen? Anything else im forgetting?

[DuckRyder]

What are we building a 360 or a 390? if 390 you need a crank, if not then you can use the 360 rods...

[1971ford]

I guess i veered off to building a 390 at the start of this thread so i have been basing everything off of building a 390. Besides, i already drilled the holes in the new paint for the fender mounted 390 emblems

Adding this to the list as well, complete gasket set. But the head gasket's won't be correct if they are standard bore, so there is a second link for that.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-7129/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1132/

[DuckRyder]

Oh, and pistons do not generally come with rings.

Federal Mogul (AKA speed pro/sealed power/fe lpro/TRW) offers engine modules that in a myriad of options. I would double check those E-Bay prices on Summit Racing and check with DSC motorsport for the rods, they may have then already reconditioned.

[1971ford]

Oh, and pistons do not generally come with rings.

Federal Mogul (AKA speed pro/sealed power/fe lpro/TRW) offers engine modules that in a myriad of options. I would double check those E-Bay prices on Summit Racing and check with DSC motorsport for the rods, they may have then already reconditioned.

I forgot about DSC!
Looks like I'll be getting the 390 rods and performer intake from them.

I think the only thing left for the whole build that i need to find are piston rings. I'm lost on where to get those. Are all piston rings basically the same as long as bore size is the same? I know nothing about them.

The list (assuming block doesn't need to be bored more, if it does then a few things will change)...
-360 block – bored .020 over (machined)
-390 Crank (inspected)
-Original 360 pistons
-390 rods: http://www.dscmotorsport.com/Crankshafts/index.htm
-Original heads
-Crower Baja Beast mild cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-16915/
-Edelbrock performer intake http://www.dscmotorsport.com/Manifolds/index.htm
-Holley 600/vacuum secondaries http://www.holley.com/0-1850C.asp
-Used factory exhaust manifolds
-Gasket complete set http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-7129/
-.020 head gaskets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1132/
-Rod bearings http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-8-3230CP10/
-Main bearings http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLE-MS863P/
-Freeze plugs http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-381-8017/

If you guys can think of anything i missed that would be great so i don't realize i missed it when im putting it back together

[DuckRyder]

Rings come in standard, moly and chrome (as a general rule). You match them up by bore and thickness, although if you buy new pistons the manufacturer will probably have a recommended set. Most people will say Plasma-Moly is the because the break in quickly.

Example Rings @ Summit Racing

[1971ford]

Thanks. I'll wait and see if the block needs to be bored more first. That will tell me what bore size to look for in the rings.
Well i guess that is the last of my questions for a while. I will turn this thread into a full build thread. I'll be machining the block and buying most of the parts so i can get started at the end of this month, and I should have all my parts after christmas to finish the build.

[hazelnut]

If you buy a complete gasket kit you dont need those.020 head gaskets,most head gasket in a kit fit your boreing out size,if i were you i would look into a rebuild kit could save you a lot of money by buying your basic parts together, after you find the machine shop you like i would ask for prices on items for your engine,most machine shops have good prices on items you need for the rebuild and if their prices are to high dont buy from them,spend some time checking prices around different places,you would be suprised how much the same part cost at different places ,your rebuilding parts are not needed till you have your engine checked-out to see what you have,buying parts before you have your engine checked could have you making returns.There is something not on your list that i think that you will want to have done,harden exhaust seats in the heads,back when these heads come out there was lead in gas and helped with protection now theres no lead in gas and exhaust seats are what pays the price.Would everybody agree on this? p.s. i dont see oil pump,timing chain,and i think electronic ignition would be money well spent.

[fomocoguy]

That's a good point about the hardened seats; we never foundout what year the engine is so we don't know if it came with hardened seats or not. I believe 72 and up had hardened seats from the factory, but it could have been a year or two earlier. I'm not positive on that one. Definetly get a standard valve job done, unless the heads are in real good shape.

[1971ford]

Ahh, I didn't know timing chains and oil pumps needed to be replaced, or at least should be. I'm guessing they are just parts that wear over time and would be best to replace them now instead of having them fail later.
Does it need to be some fancy double roller or will a simple replacement like this work
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-C494/
And same with oil pump, should i go for a stock replacement or is there need for a high volume?
Stock replacement: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-M57/
High volume: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-M57HV/
I'll get hardened seats for sure
I'll look into ignition once the engine is together, since it is not needed right away for the build.

Also i know it doesn't really matter for anything but I thought i'd add that the engine has 63,000 original miles.